Then, all of a sudden, I hear melodic tones. The Neyland Ladies Choir of Pembrokeshire is giving a concert – they are older ladies with lovely hair in matching outfits that even in western Wales couldn’t possibly pass as fashionable. Elegant outfits are less important here, my daughter whispers. The guard who a bit later collects the four-pound parking fee at St David’s harbour is wearing a thin summer dress despite the chilly temperature. The crashing surf, the call of seagulls, the taste of salt in the air. Even without eyesight, I can feel the sea right in front of me.
Before we board the excursion boat, the crew instructs us on proper life jacket use. The captain takes care of me, his blind charge, tightens the straps, and instructs me not to mess with the valve. I would never dare.
The reinforced inflatable boat glides gently out of the harbour and sets course for Ramsey Island, one of more than 50 islands off this part of the coast of Wales. The guests are spellbound, watching a grey seal plough through the waves alongside the boat. A thousand of them are said to arrive on Ramsey Island during the fall mating season. The skipper throttles back the engine, muffling the sound of the boat. We have ventured into one of many grottoes, and from the ceiling, fine drops drizzle down onto the boat.
Back in the harbour, the local sea rescue team is showing off its new boat to a large audience. In summer, they go out an average of eight times a day to pick up stray kayakers or unlucky cliff divers. These adventures don’t entice me – making our way back to our hotel is challenge enough. Yet again, a long staircase with uneven steps leads to our destination once again testing this blind traveller.
This story was originally published in Condé Nast Traveller Germany. It was translated by John Oseid.
