I spent the night in Wales’ Italian-inspired village

I’ll admit, I love quirky and off-beat places, especially if you can stay the night and explore long after the daytrippers have gone. So, imagine my curiosity when I discovered a unique coastal village in Wales with no residents, cars, schools, or banks. I knew I had to visit at once.

Inspired by Portofino’s multicoloured façades, Portmeirion is a uniquely constructed tourist village that offers a slice of Italy on the bracing Welsh coast. You can stay overnight in a ‘village room’ or in one of two luxury 4-star hotels.

Alongside its unique architectural heritage, the private, ticketed site features two swanky hotels, self-catering cottages, an indulgent spa, gift shops, cafés, restaurants and an authentic Italian-style gelateria.

Walking into Portmeirion for the first time is undoubtedly an experience. The village rises like a painted mirage, with pastel-coloured buildings and whimsical towers that seem plucked from a fairytale.

Here, clusters of lush and green trees frame the view while the estuary beyond glitters under the changing light of the Welsh sky.

From the moment you cross the threshold, it’s clear that this is not just any village—Portmeirion is a visual masterpiece.

Portmeirion was born out of the long-held ambition of its founder, architect Clough Williams-Ellis. His creative vision for an Italianate-style, private peninsula village on the Welsh coast resulted in a charming tourist destination with a Mediterranean feel.

While many think of the village as the indulgent whimsy of an eccentric architect, Clough recognised the value of tourism to the Welsh economy. He had a clear vision for managed tourism and sustainability – hugely ahead of the curve.

Clough acquired the wilderness site in 1925 and dedicated his life to developing this run-down peninsula into a popular coastal attraction. He heavily drew inspiration from the coloured façades of Portofino, resulting in dream-like, pastel-coloured buildings, ornamental gardens, and piazzas with fancy fountains and a giant chess set.

Strolling around, it feels like each building has its own personality—some are playful, with bright facades and ornate details, while others are stately, exuding an old-world charm.

Sir Clough’s clever use of arches, slopes and window sizes also make the village appear larger than it is, and many of the buildings have been ‘upcycled’ from former sites.

Classical buildings were salvaged from demolition, giving rise to Clough’s description of Portmeirion as “a home for fallen buildings.” Construction of the site continued in stages until 1976 when Clough sadly passed away.

Portmeirion is also well-known as the home of the TV cult classic The Prisoner, starring Patrick McGoohan. The series was filmed here in the 1960s, and the village provided a surreal backdrop to the off-beat series.

CEO of North Wales Tourism Ltd, Jim Jones, has long advocated for visitors to Wales to spend time in Portmeirion, “For many years, it has definitely been a place to seek a tranquil day escape or a weekend getaway.”

Jones adds, “Portmeirion effortlessly caters to families, couples, and solo adventurers alike. There are opportunities to experience a stay in 2 of their 4-star hotels and apartments, all situated within the village. For me, it’s a truly magical place with the added benefit of being close to Ffestiniog & Highland railway.”

Why you should stay overnight in Portmeirion

Portmeirion is a wildly popular tourist attraction in Wales, with around 200,000 visitors annually. During the day, the site is packed with visitors who come for the colourful architecture, cafes and spa.

The village empties as the day draws on and the shadows grow longer. The daytrippers, who fill the streets with chatter and snapping cameras, slowly disperse.

It’s in these quiet moments that Portmeirion reveals another side to its character—a serene, almost mystical atmosphere that envelops the village as the sun dips below the horizon.

This is the best time to be in Portmeirion when day visitors have gone, and you can roam the surreal site with fewer crowds. Only overnight guests can be on site after the village has ‘closed’ for the day, so make the most of the near-empty streets.

Portmeirion village rooms

Staying overnight in one of the ‘village rooms’ is like being let in on a secret.

When the crowds are gone, Portmeirion is yours alone to discover. Wandering through the quiet streets, with the village illuminated by the soft glow of the street lamps, you feel transported to a quirky film set.

We stayed in one of the ‘Village rooms’ above the central piazza. Its colonnades and fountains give its design an undeniable sense of joy, a celebration of beauty and imagination that has long inspired creatives.

Stepping out onto the balcony, you can look over the picturesque piazza and the village and get some gorgeous photos without hordes of visitors in your shot.

Accommodation options

Portmeirion offers various accommodation options, each with its unique charm. Choose between the sophisticated 4-star Hotel Portmeirion, the chic and modern 4-star Castell Deudraeth, the characterful Village Rooms, or an array of distinctive self-catering cottages.

The flagship spot to stay is the 4-star Hotel Portmeirion, lovingly converted from an old Victorian villa. It was opened in 1926 by village creator Clough Williams-Ellis to much fanfare.

The hotel has undergone refurbishments over the years to modernise its style while retaining some original features. The Grade II-listed hotel is also famous for being the place where English playwright Noel Coward wrote Blithe Spirit in 1941.

It feels very stately with its cosy sofas set around an Italian-style fireplace and Art Deco-inspired design in the bar and dining room.

The other impressive accommodation, Castell Deudraeth, is a 4-star, Victorian castellated mansion built by David Williams with 11 modern and spacious rooms.

In the heart of Portmeirion Village, you’ll also find 32 individually designed rooms, each brimming with character. These charming accommodations combine the comforts of a traditional hotel with the added bonus of being located right inside the vibrant village.

Dinner at Portmeirion

The village has plenty of dining options for daytrippers, from cafés to a 1950s-style bar and even an Italian gelateria. Opening days and hours depend on the season, so it’s always worth checking ahead first.

The bonus of staying the night in Portmeirion, though, is having a fancy dinner at one of the village’s two full-service restaurants without huge crowds.

We had a romantic dinner at the Portmeirion Hotel Dining Room, the perfect end to a whimsical day.

With its elegant décor and sweeping views of the estuary, this Award-winning Art Deco Restaurant offers a refined dining experience deeply rooted in the local landscape.

Executive Head Chef Mark Threadgill and his skilled team, led by Head Chef Daniel Griffiths, work their culinary magic in the kitchen. They source the finest local ingredients, some even foraged within the village, to craft a distinctive modern Welsh cuisine.

Their dishes blend traditional French techniques with Japanese flavours, offering a dynamic and ever-evolving menu that highlights the freshest seasonal produce.

Typical dishes include dry-aged Welsh beef sirloin, Wild sea bass and Courgette, and pine nut and ricotta cannelloni.

What to do in Portmeirion

Whether you are a day visitor or staying the night, there are plenty of things to keep you entertained in Portmeirion

Discover nature

Despite its coastal location, Portmeirion is not just a summer destination. The 130-acre site, set amid woodlands and carefully manicured gardens, offers some of the most stunning scenery in Wales – magical for autumn colours and beautifully still on a winter morning.

The microclimate of the peninsula also protects it from the worst of the winter frosts, although it has snowed here on occasion, much to the delight of photographers.

Take the scenic, 40-minute walk through the Gwyllt woodland to explore a wild garden designed by the horticulturalist Caton Haigh, an authority on Himalayan trees and exotic plants.

Two main paths lead into the pretty woodlands, and 19 miles (30.5km) of walking paths lead to highlights such as the Ghost Garden, Tangle Wood, and Chinese Lake.

Each season brings new life to Portmeirion’s manicured gardens with textures and colours anew as you wander through its cobbled streets and piazzas. For sweeping views of the estuary, head to Clifftop & Chantry Row or walk to the Mermaid Spa for superb coastal views.

Nearby, you’ll also find the Min y Don to Black Rock Sands section of the long-distance Wales Coast Path. After you visit the village, you can veer off for a longer walk on the Welsh coast to discover its impressive, rocky shorelines.

Shopping

Portmeirion also has a range of well-heeled and bespoke shops, including the world’s only Prisoner TV Show Shop. Here, you can buy memorabilia from the show, such as maps, badges, Village Foods tins and figures.

Elsewhere, you’ll find Welsh language and tourism books at the bookstore, a curated collection of gifts and local products at The Ship Shop, Welsh produce, and Portmeirion’s very own wine and champagne at Pot Jam.

Portmeirion Online also offers a range of Portmeirion-branded gifts and souvenirs to commemorate your visit. Browse printed mugs, tea towels, and chocolates alongside a small selection of discounted Portmeirion pottery.

Portmeirion even has its own dedicated shop outside of the village in the harbour town of Porthmadog.

Siop Fawr Portmeirion is a homeware store and café in the former three-storey Kerfoots, which is thought to be the oldest department store in North Wales, dating back to 1874.

Have an indulgent spa

The boutique Mermaid Spa offers a restorative experience by the sea and has a range of luxury and well-being treatments to help you unwind. Enjoy a re-energising facial, warming hot stone massage, or indulgent body wrap with views of the peaceful Dwyryd Estuary as you slip into quiet bliss.

Expert therapists use high-quality and vegan-friendly products to deliver all-natural therapies that keep with the village’s upmarket feel. Various spa packages, including bespoke options, are available, and you don’t need to be an overnight guest to book. You can even indulge in a post-spa afternoon tea in Hotel Portmeirion for the perfect pamper day in North Wales.