The traditional resort of Barry is a historic place of religious pilgrimage, but now attracts legions of Gavin and Stacey fans as well as a growing number of young creatives from nearby Cardiff
What’s occurrin’? Barry is a classic working-class resort, where miners from the South Wales Valleys would have spent their annual holiday. During the Georgian era, it was a favoured destination among peers of the realm, and it blossomed in the Edwardian era.
In later years, it was home to a huge Butlins holiday camp, which has since disappeared.
But these days, the Welsh seaside town has been reborn as a place of pilgrimage for fans of the TV comedy series Gavin and Stacey, who revel in its kiss-me-quick kitsch. The Christmas special this year brings the story to an end.
Barry is not all funfairs and hangovers, however. A cluster of independent businesses is now attracting Cardiff hipsters to the seaside. Tidy!
For more, see visitwales.com.
How to get there
Barry is around 12 miles west of Cardiff and close to the M4. There are four train stations: Barry station is best for The Goodsheds shipping container village and Barry Island for the seaside.
Services are operated by Transport for Wales with regular connections to Cardiff Central. Barry island is walkable, but a car is useful to explore the wider Vale of Glamorgan.
Where to stay
There’s a dearth of quality accommodation in Barry itself. A new, no-chain option is the range of self-catering Goodstay Apartments within the Goodsheds complex. Close to Barry station and café-bars, the serviced apartments are modern and clean, with wet rooms and parking available. One-bedroom apartment from £80 per night, accessible rooms available, theurbanspace.co.uk.
Around half an hour away in the village of Hensol and close to the M4 from Cardiff, Llanerch is a vineyard restaurant with stylish rooms and a contemporary feel. Dine in for wine-pairing estate wines with dinner (three courses £45pp) after a tour and tasting.
Doubles from £160; vineyard tour and tasting £25pp, two accessible rooms, llanerch.co.uk.
Day one: Up with the sun
Gavin and Stacey fans can follow a self-guided trail around the area to walk in the footsteps of their TV heroes, including a selfie outside 47 Trinity Street, the residential house used during filming as Stacey’s home. More information here.
For a blow-away-the-cobwebs winter stroll, talk a ramble along the Wales Coast Path. From Marco’s Café at Barry’s Whitmore Bay, it’s a 30-minute walk, heading via Iron Age burial sites on the headland, towards the suburb of Cold Knap. Think bracing sea air and views across to Hinkley Point, Somerset. Extend the walk with a stroll around Knap gardens, a coffee stop, and a walk through the woodland of the Porthkerry Nature Reserve.
Souvenir hunting
Located on the High Street away from the seaside, the Barry Island Spirits Co has range of small-batch, craft gin, vodka and rum. Expect in-shop tastings and a good range of Welsh wines, plus limited-edition Gavin and Stacey bottles (£40), accompanied by Gavin and Stacey-motif tasting glasses (£6). Open Weds to Sat.
For classic Gavin and Stacey-inspired merch, head to Sofia’s Souvenirs (open daily) by the Barry seafront for tea towels, fridge magnets, and t-shirts emblazoned with the TV characters.
Within the Goodsheds, converted from the Victorian railway goods sheds, the urban high street has a range of street food and independent retailers, including Hattsville Records for vinyl, Fussy for sustainable vintage clothes and Annie & Lolo’s for classic gifts, cards and homeware.
Don’t miss
The volunteer-run Barry War Museum, next to Barry Island train station, takes you back to life during the First World War (entry free, limited opening).
The RNLI visitor centre (free, open weekdays) is one of the few in Britain to have its own interactive exhibit about saving lives at sea.
Heading back towards Cardiff, the main visitor attraction is the St Fagans National Museum of History (free entry, £7 parking).
Time for a sundowner
Craft Republic, a dog-friendly independent bar and bottle shop found within the Goodsheds complex, has 14 craft ales on tap, board games and a bottle shop for Welsh craft beers. Open Tues-Weds evening, Thurs-Sun all day.
The Park on Park Crescent is a good place for a pint with the locals. Go for a pint of Butty Bach from the Wye Valley Brewery and an easy-going atmosphere.
Dinner reservation
The Goodsheds is very “new Barry” and home to Cozy Tapas for all-day weekend dining and Saturday bottomless brunch (£40pp). Across the road is Front Room, a welcoming “no rules” pizza restaurant majoring in Welsh produce and 14-inch, thin-crust pizzas with creative toppings. Styled like a living room, it offers brunch, lunch and dinner with home-made dough and cocktails on the side.
If you’re heading for fish and chips on the seafront, then Boofy’s is the go-to place before dancing round your handbag at Cubanas nightclub.
Day two: Hit the beach
Of the five beaches in the area, Whitmore Bay is the main destination with a crescent of golden sand. It’s access friendly and offers easy access to all the big seaside attractions. Away from the neon, Monknash is more secluded for rock pooling, while Penarth has its own its promenade and pier, plus dramatic cliff-top walks.
Make a beach day of it by hiring one of the 24 pastel-hued beach huts located along the eastern promenade (from half/full day £14/23) and soak up the views across Whitmore Bay. Open year round; parking at the nearby Nells Point car park. More from visitthevale.com/attractions/barry-island-beach-huts.
Lunch time
Head for Western Shelter, the seaside promenade home to Nessa’s Slots amusement arcade from the series for a frothy coffee at Marco’s Café. It’s a favourite with beachcombers and dog walkers, as well as the place where Stacey works in the show. Walking along the beach to the suburb of Cold Knap, Romilly’s is a popular spot for coffees, light lunches and afternoon teas by Knap Gardens with its wandering swans. Open daily. Be aware: lots of places close Monday-Tuesday off season.
Time to relax
Tourist guide Shan Eastwood offers chauffer-driven tours of the region, including film and TV locations (from £250, shanswalestours.com).
A final treat
Artisan ice cream is replacing 99s – try Scoop (from the duo behind The Posh Fish and Chip Company in Cardiff), which also serves coffee and cake, or Zio’s Gelateria overlooking Whitmore Bay – the family has been on the island since 1958.
Three things you might not know about Barry
The Barry coast has one of the largest tidal ranges in the world, at 15m – second to the Bay of Fundy in Canada.
Glamorgan College’s Summer School in Barry once attracted eminent 20th-century artists, including George Brecht.
The last Gavin and Stacey TV special attracted a record-breaking audience of 11.6m viewers on Christmas Day 2019. While the island attracts fans of the series, it is a historic place of pilgrimage – four holy journeys to St Baruc’s church were considered equivalent to one to Rome.
