I went on holiday to ‘murder capital of the world’ — barely bigger than Wales

If you’ve ever tried to photograph a hummingbird, you’ll know that it’s no easy task. But there I was, at the foot of a volcano in El Salvador, chasing the flitting birds around with my camera phone. Quite ridiculous, but rather satisfying when I eventually managed it.

I was in the Cerro Verde National Park, home to tiny birds and very large volcanoes; Cerro Verde, Izalco, and Santa Ana are the big three here.

The hiking trails leave from a large car park at the entrance, and a lovely guide took us deep into the fertile forests around the base of Cerro Verde, pointing out all the unique birds, flowers and plants that fill this magnificent park.

El Salvador is the smallest of the seven countries that make up Central America and is a relatively recent addition to the tourist map. After a past of civil war, political corruption and problems with extortion gangs, the country is emerging with a renewed sense of hope and peace.

It was once the murder capital of the world, but crime has plummeted since a huge – and controversial – crackdown in 2022 on the violent gangs plaguing the country. Outdoor markets and family businesses are once again flourishing and the people are keen to show off El Salvador’s heritage, beaches, volcano hikes and nightlife.

It’s far less commercial than some of its glitzier Latin American cousins, which makes it all the more charming.

Once we had finished our volcano hike, we hit the food stalls for delicious fresh pupusas. These are practically the national dish – a corn flatbread stuffed with all manner of tasty fillings and grilled over a fire.

I opted for queso y chicharron – cheese and spicy pork – with fried yucca on the side, and finished off with sweet pasteles (pastries). Cheap and delicious.

Visit between November and February when the 21-mile Ruta de Las Flores (Route of Flowers) in the Western Highlands explodes with colour.

The trail passes through some of the prettiest villages in El Salvador: Nahuizalco, Salcoatitán, Juayuá, Apaneca and Ataco.

Ataco also has colourful street art to rival the riot of flowers on every corner.

Juayua is the jumping-off point for the spectacular Seven Waterfalls hike, through coffee plantations and lush forests, with volcanoes looming in the distance.

This pretty little town also has a food market every weekend, where you can try all manner of local treats, from grilled seafood to local sausages, to the ubiquitous pupusas.

If you don’t have a car, then you can get about on local transport – including the cheap and cheerful “chicken” buses – check out the Centrocoasting website for routes and timetables.

We visited the El Carmen coffee estate just outside Ataco, where we followed the process from picking to drying to roasting to packing to tasting.

I even “helped” to rake some of the beans drying in the sun.

This is a proper working farm, so there are no bells and whistles, but we did get to enjoy some delicious Ataco gourmet coffee prepared in a traditional correador dripper in the lush gardens of the estate house, which contains a very nice B&B and restaurant.

Colourful birds darted about and agoutis (think guinea pig with long legs) snuffled around, and I bought several bags of the top-rated coffee to take home.

One of my favourite towns was colonial Suchitoto, about an hour and a half north of the capital San Salvador. There’s a pretty flower-filled square dominated by the brilliant white facade of the church of Santa Lucia, one of the best examples of colonial architecture in the country. On a corner next to the church is the bright yellow Casa de la Abuela (grandmother’s house) which has a cracking shop for souvenirs and gifts, a funky cafe for tasty coffee and cakes, and a handy ice cream shop (it’s very hot in El Salvador!).

The vibrant central market is where all the locals shop for fresh goods, and you can try fresh pupusas here.

By far the most bizarre experience of my time in El Salvador was at the memorable Museum Of A Thousand Plates And More.

The owner of this charming little place, just behind the church, has spent several decades travelling all over the world and collecting all manner of decorative plates, which are proudly displayed from floor to ceiling in a series of rambling rooms adjoining his house.

If he’s in town, you can enjoy an entertaining tour from the man himself – he will give you chapter and verse on every plate in the entire museum if you let him!

This is the town for you if you like deep purple (the colour, not the rock band); indigo (anil) used to be the region’s main industry until artificial dye was invented in the 19th century and production virtually ceased; but a revival of local customs has seen a resurgence. At Arte Anil on the main square there is a shop filled with beautiful clothes and products made using traditional methods

You can also sign up for a workshop to learn how the dye is made from the anil plant and then you have a go at dyeing your very own scarf with your own unique design. Huge amounts of (very messy!) fun.

After you’ve hit all the main sites, just wander around the cobbled backstreets, taking in the pretty, colourful houses with their wrought iron window dressings, cute wooden doors, and exotic flowers and birds.

We finally retired to the magnificent Casa 1800 hotel – a
lush plant-filled haven with wooden balustrades and beautifully tiled floors.

Dinner is served in the terraced gardens and breakfast can be enjoyed on the deck overlooking Lake Suchitlan.

While El Salvador may not have ancient sites on the scale of Tikal in neighbouring Guatemala, it does have a rich Mayan history, with several fascinating archeological parks worth exploring.

San Andres, Joya de Cerén and Tazumal are all within striking distance of each other, and a tour of these sites gives a fascinating glimpse of pre-Hispanic life.

After a dusty day of Indiana Jonesing, there was no better place to unwind than on the shores of Lake Coatepeque, in the luxurious Cardedeu Residence.

Take in the glorious views of the lake from the floor-to-ceiling windows in your room, from the various balconies, from the rim-flow pool or from the deck of the exquisite cocktail bar.

The lake offers all manner of watersports, or you can just laze about on one of the lakeshore cabanas, sipping on a margarita. Bliss.

For a country that’s barely bigger than Wales, El Salvador has a wealth of riches for the visitor.