The Knitted Circle: Zandra Rhodes’ fashion career inspired by Wales trip

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A Welsh holiday more than 50 years ago inspired a top fashion designer’s first collection.

Dame Zandra Rhodes, known globally for her flamboyant creations and vivid textile prints, says the landscape of Tregaron in Ceredigion was her muse for her 1969 collection The Knitted Circle.

Dame Zandra, who has dressed the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Freddie Mercury and Princess Diana, visited the town with broadcaster Janet Street-Porter and her then husband Tim.

“The Welsh landscape inspired me to design prints that looked like knitted flowers, which I then turned into evening dresses,” she told Lucy Owen on BBC Radio Wales.

“Tim Street-Porter’s parents had a house in Tregaron. I would bake bread there and soak in the greenery. You feel at peace, surrounded by wildflowers, trees, and rivers.

“It’s gorgeous and makes you want to draw.”

This Welsh-inspired collection launched a career that has flourished for decades, with Dame Zandra dressing high-profile figures including Welsh singing legend Dame Shirley Bassey.

“She came into my shop and then I did a wonderful, long beaded seashell dress with a train,” she said.

“Another piece I did featured a beaded New York landscape hat looked very good on her too.

“She performed in Carnegie Hall and even announced me from the stage. It was quite an experience in such a grand auditorium.”

Their collaboration blossomed into a dynamic working relationship, crafting many of Dame Shirley’s iconic stage outfits.

“She can really work them as well. She was quite wonderful, very natural, had great fun, sort of, organising things.

“I think with all the people that I’ve dressed, it’s a case that they look at what you do, and they come to you because they feel that you could do something that accentuates their personality and can look great.”

In Dame Zandra’s new autobiography, Iconic, Dame Shirley is quoted as saying: “We share the same sentiment. Who wants to live a life without colour, music, or laughter?”

Wales not only inspired Dame Zandra’s first collection but also immortalised her in a vibrant sculpture by close friend Andrew Logan, displayed at The Andrew Logan Museum of Sculpture in Powys.

“Andrew and I went to India, where we saw these delightful wobbling dolls. He created a huge one of me in a green crinoline with red and pink paisley,” Dame Zandra said.

“It wobbles and dances in the museum. It’s rather fabulous.”

Dame Zandra says she is most proud of the fact that she is still designing from her London studio.

Following treatment for cancer four years ago, she still has immunotherapy.

Now, the designer is making sure her work will be available for future generations to enjoy.

Her legacy endures in museums in New York, Los Angeles, and at her own Fashion and Textile Museum in London.

But what is her message for us all when we dress?

“Never be nervous of wearing colour and jewellery,” Dame Zandra said.

“It cheers you up in the world. And don’t worry if people look at you.

“You’re just a wonderful flower that passes by.”

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